A couple days ago we briefly reported about the AK Geneve HMS Automatic Warp Watch. Now got access to the full press-kit and can bring you more details about this unique watch.
Glass
Cut flush with the asymmetric middle-piece and profiled to fit
the very special interior design of the
case, the convex glass was a real nightmare to make. "You should
make it shorter, this bit serves no
purpose!", is the remark that Arny Kapshitzer heard most
frequently. That's probably why he
wanted so much to keep it, this famous “bit” of glass that gives
the watch its characteristic shape,
despite the extreme complexity of manufacturing it.
Dial
It looks like something straight out of the Star Trek series,
uncannily reminiscent of the starship
Enterprise. Located eccentrically towards the right of the dial,
a cut-away metal piece reveals the
jumping hours and minutes on two superimposed discs. The seconds
are displayed at 3 o'clock on a
cylinder linked directly to the crown. 9 o'clock forms the tail
of the “spaceship”. Made of the same
metal, it bears the name of the watch and is punctuated by a
totally off-centre dot, where the brand
logo is engraved.
Movement
The basic automatic movement is the Time Engine 001 (the 00 is
the coaxial movement in
preparation), made in cooperation with Concepto. Operating at
28,800 vibrations per hour, its
oscillating weight is made of iridium alloy with a carbon-fibre
plate. The telescopic crown, which is
not screw-on but has a bayonet fitting, is mounted on a titanium
shock-absorber and directly linked
to the movement. The jumping hours and minutes module and the
seconds module on the cylinder,
on the other hand, are proprietary. Nothing is superfluous here:
all the pieces, which are interlinked,
are useful. Although its design is complicated, this movement is
simple and reliable to use. It
benefits from a chamfered, a microshot-blasted and satin-lustred
finishing.
Bracelet
The quest for materials has been taken right down to the
bracelet. Made of perfluorinated,
hypoallergenic rubber that resists all acids, it is more
expensive - but also unique and much more
reliable over time - than the vast majority of rubbers currently
available. In addition, the clasp is
recessed into the inner surface of the bracelet (an innovative
system on which a patent is being
filed), so as not to injure or impede the wrist. Better still,
with this clasp and the profiled case the
watch becomes an integral part of the wrist.